Terug naar plamo kits
Geplaatst op: 17 oktober 2026

Model-informatie

ModelSopwith F.1 Camel (BR.1)
Schaal1/48
Serie
FabrikantEduard
Release jaar2021
Kit nummer82171

Aankoop-informatie

Datum18 oktober 2025
Prijs€19,60
WinkelEduard
VenueSMC (Scale Model Challenge) 2025
LocatieVeldhoven, Nederland
Doosje bij de Eduard stand bij SMC 2025
Doosje bij de Eduard stand bij SMC 2025

De Sopwith Camel

Dit vliegtuig was gebouwd door de Sopwith Aviation Company en werd tijdens de Eerste Wereldoorlog gebruikt door de Britten.

De kit

Ik heb deze kit gekocht bij de Eduard stand tijdens SMC (Scale Model Challenge) in Veldhoven, in 2025. Ik heb de F.1 variant met een Bentley BR.1 motor en ga de “Black Maria” maken, die werd gebruikt door de Canadese piloot Raymond Collishaw.

Gebruikte verf

  • Mr. Hobby - C42 Mahogany
  • Mr. Hobby - C43 Wood Brown
  • Mr. Hobby - C45 Sail Color
  • Mr. Hobby - C125 Cowling Color
  • Mr. Hobby - GX101 GX Clear Black (schaduw)
  • Vallejo - 72.051 Game Color - Black (Olie-spetters, machinegeweren)
  • Vallejo - 72.052 Metallic - Silver (Machinegeweer randjes)
  • Vallejo - 72.055 Metallic - Polished Gold (Instrumenten op het controle-paneel)
  • Vallejo - 72.071 Game Color - Barbarian Skin (Machinegeweer hendels)
  • Rembrandt - 403 VanDyke Brown (olieverf voor het houtnerf effect)

(Maar, koop niet de dure Rembrandt verf, het is een kwaliteitsverf eigenlijk bedoeld voor schilderijen)

Foto’s

Bentley BR.1 rotatiemotor
Bentley BR.1 rotatiemotor
Controle paneel
Controle paneel
Control paneel met gloss vernis aangebracht
Controle paneel met gloss vernis aangebracht
Cockpit / stuurhut
Cockpit / stuurhut
Cockpit / stuurhut
Cockpit / stuurhut
Cockpit / stuurhut
Cockpit / stuurhut
Gebouwde fusilage interieur bovenaf gezien
Gebouwde fusilage interieur bovenaf gezien
Gebouwde fusilage interieur vanaf zijkant gezien
Gebouwde fusilage interieur vanaf zijkant gezien
Gebouwde fusilage interieur vanaf zijkant gezien
Gebouwde fusilage interieur vanaf zijkant gezien
Gebouwde fusilage en kap
Gebouwde fusilage en kap
Gemaskeerde vleugels, onderkant
Gemaskeerde vleugels, onderkant
Schaduw op de vleugels, onderkant
Schaduw op de vleugels, onderkant

Ik denk dat ik veel te veel schaduw heb toegebracht. Er is te veel contrast. Maar, omdat het de onderkant is, is dat misschien niet zo erg, dus heb ik het gelaten zoals het is.

Schaduw op de vleugels onderkant, dichterbij
Schaduw op de vleugels onderkant, dichterbij
Aangepaste mahogany met zwart, voor de hoofdkleur
Aangepaste mahogany met zwart, voor de hoofdkleur
Gemaskeerde vleugels, bovenkant
Gemaskeerde vleugels, bovenkant
Schaduw op de vleugels, bovenkant
Schaduw op de vleugels, bovenkant

I made a mistake, because I decided to shade the underside of the fusilage. This is to simulate where wooden planks should be. After paining the dark brown on the sides, I noticed that the model already suggests where these planks should be. These did not line up with my randomly placed shadows, so I had to repaint the underside and mask again using a single tape for the sides and underside.

Misaligned shadows
Misaligned shadows
Fixing the misaligned shadows
Fixing the misaligned shadows
Fixed misaligned shadows
Fixed misaligned shadows
Applying the first decals
Applying the first decals
Applying Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softner
Applying Mr. Mark Setter and Mr. Mark Softner
Flat Clear varnish applied (decal on left wing)
Flat Clear varnish applied (decal on left wing)

At one point, the floor broke loose. I used a long rod to apply a droplet of glue and reattach the floor back to the correct position again. I think this happened because I glued the parts after painting and did not remove a bit of paint.

Broken floor before and after the fix
Broken floor before and after the fix
Fixing the broken floor
Fixing the broken floor

I also messed up the alignment of the guns, I did not seem to be able to align the guns on the control panel properly. I did put the control panel itself in the right place, but I must have done something wrong with the guns. I decided to hide this by creating additional parts and put these on top of the guns to try and hide my mistake.

Misaligned guns
Misaligned guns
Extra parts for the guns
Extra parts for the guns
Guns with extra parts
Guns with extra parts

I painted the edges of the tail, after applying the decals.

Painting tail
Painting tail
Adding the wheels
Adding the wheels
In progress
In progress
Putting the middle struts in place
Putting the middle struts in place
All struts attached
All struts attached

From a distance it may look fine, but zooming in will reveal the terrible glueing mistakes I made. I had a terrible time with this and my inexperience shows here.

Glue mistakes on struts
Glue mistakes on struts
Glue mistakes on langing gear
Glue mistakes on langing gear
Lifted tail mistake
Lifted tail mistake
Glue mistake on the underside of wing
Glue mistake on the underside of wing

Rigging

Next came the rigging. If my glue mistakes were not bad already, the glue mess I made during the rigging made me feel I ruined the model. This definitely was something I need more experience in. I also should have prepared the model much more with pre-drilled holes before painting.

Rigging on the tail
Rigging on the tail
Rigging on the tail
Rigging on the tail
Applying glue to the lines
Applying glue to the lines
Applying glue to the lines
Applying glue to the lines

I had a lot of problems getting to attach the rigging lines from point to point. I decided to instead rotate the line around the strut several times and then add some glue. This made the rigging a little more fun to do, but the mess of the glue ruined a lot.

Rotating the rigging around the struts
Rotating the rigging around the struts
Rotating the rigging around the struts
Rotating the rigging around the struts
Rigging between the wings
Rigging between the wings

I lost the original part that is supposed to be suspended between the rigging. I think it is something used to tighten the cables. I used a bit of leftover sprue, drilled a hole in it and sanded it down.

sprue part
sprue part
Sanded part
Sanded part
Completed part suspended between the rigging
Completed part suspended between the rigging

Diorama

For the base of the diorama, I bought a cheap wooden photo frame from the HEMA, a local store in the Netherlands.

HEMA Photo frame
HEMA Photo frame

I applied AK Terrain Light Earth on the frame to serve as the earth. The grass will be added later.

Sand texture applied to the frame
Sand texture applied to the frame
Sopwith Camel on a bare sand base
Sopwith Camel on a bare sand base

I wanted to add a little Maria chapel on the diorama. Just a simple building to add something interesting.

Starting the chapel
Starting the chapel

The little bricks are uneven in width and height. To keep the height consistent, I sanded each layer of bricks.

Sanding each layer of the chapel.
Sanding each layer of the chapel.
More layers of the chapel
More layers of the chapel
Sides of the chapel
Sides of the chapel

I used a drill to sand the entrance of the chapel, to add a more smooth layer of bricks.

Chapel entrance
Chapel entrance

I used some coffee stir sticks to make some supports for the roof. I think these are made of balsa wood. I used a Sliding T-Bevel from Shinwa to saw the sticks all at the right angle.

Making the roof supports
Making the roof supports
Roof supports
Roof supports
Some bats who live in the chapel
Some bats who live in the chapel

I added a pilot figure as well. The crows, bats and treestumps came from Green Stuff World. I added barren grass tufts of slightly different brands and colours to make it a little more interesting.

Plusmodel Camel Pilot
Plusmodel Camel Pilot
In progress diorama
In progress diorama
Creating footsteps
Creating footsteps
Completed chapel
Completed chapel
Skeleton behind the chapel
Skeleton behind the chapel

Transport

Also important, in order to get the diorama safely transported to the Scale Model Challenge (SMC) in Veldhoven, I cut some cardboard to make sure it cannot move while carrying it.

Transport box
Transport box

Scale Model Challenge 2026

I participated in the Scale Model Challenge 2026, exactly 1 year after purchasing this model kit from Eduard at SMC 2025. I managed to win a highly commended pin. Although, I made a lot of mistakes on this model, especially the glue. But maybe my additional work managed to save the whole thing just a little bit. Nevertheless, this Sopwith Camel model was the most difficult I made so far and also greatly inspired me to continue making more world war 1 aircraft in the future.

The little nameplate came from: nameitplates.com, a shop in the United Kingdom.

SMC Sopwith Camels
SMC Sopwith Camels
SMC Sopwith Camel
SMC Sopwith Camel
SMC Sopwith Camel
SMC Sopwith Camel
SMC Sopwith Camel
SMC Sopwith Camel

This Sopwith Camel was made by Mr.Paint from SIG Plamo, which also won a Highly Commended pin.

SMC Sopwith Camel made by Mr.Paint
SMC Sopwith Camel made by Mr.Paint

And this Sopwith Camel, made by Mr.Sprue from SIG Plamo, won a Bronze medal!

SMC Sopwith Camel made by Mr.Sprue
SMC Sopwith Camel made by Mr.Sprue
SMC Sopwith Camel made by Mr.Sprue
SMC Sopwith Camel made by Mr.Sprue

And if you want to know what a Silver medal Sopwith Camel looks like, then enjoy seeing this one made by Mr.Plamo from the SIG Plamo group.

SMC Sopwith Camel made by Mr.Plamo
SMC Sopwith Camel made by Mr.Plamo
SMC Sopwith Camel made by Mr.Plamo
SMC Sopwith Camel made by Mr.Plamo

Now that I have the HC pin, the next goal has to be a medal. Thank you for reading my article.

SMC 2026 Highly Commended pin
SMC 2026 Highly Commended pin

Terug naar plamo kits